On this page
- Which exterior problems go with which Pickering neighbourhood?
- Bay Ridges: what 60 years by Frenchman’s Bay does to a house
- Pickering by the numbers: growth that shapes exterior work
- 10 signs the builder-grade eaves and trim on your new Pickering home need an upgrade
- How to upgrade builder-grade eavestrough on a new Pickering home
- Why open-field wind matters north of the 401
- The 1980s–90s neighbourhoods: is it time to replace the first aluminum?
- 5″ or 6″ eavestrough: which is right for a Pickering home?
- What does exterior aluminum work cost in Pickering?
- What we inspect on a Pickering exterior
- Step by step: replacing window capping on a 1960s Bay Ridges home
- Checklist: before your Pickering estimate
- Frequently asked questions
- Sources
Quick answer: Pickering homes fall into three groups, and each needs different exterior work. Bay Ridges houses from the 1960s and 70s near Frenchman’s Bay usually need rot repair, new capping and replacement eavestrough. The 1980s–90s subdivisions are reaching the end of their first aluminum. New Seaton and Duffin Heights homes often get builder-grade eaves and trim upgraded. Pro Aluminum Siding handles all three.
- Pickering had about 106,350 residents at the end of 2024. The City forecasts about 170,000 by 2044.
- Seaton is planned for about 61,000 residents. It had 2,870 housing units by 2024.
- Most of present-day Bay Ridges was built in the 1960s and 70s, around Frenchman’s Bay on Lake Ontario.
- Free estimates, written contract, licensed, fully insured (liability + WSIB), 5-year workmanship warranty.
- We’re a service-area contractor: crews travel to Pickering from across the GTA. Call (647) 560-9038.
Which exterior problems go with which Pickering neighbourhood?
Pickering’s age bands map well onto the problems we see on its houses. Lakefront homes south of the 401 are fighting moisture and age. Mid-generation subdivisions are fighting faded, brittle-looking first-generation aluminum. New communities in the north are fighting thin builder materials and open-field wind. Use this table to find your house, then jump to the section that fits it.
| Home type | Typical era | Main exposure | Most common issues | Usual first fix |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bay Ridges and lakefront bungalows, back-splits, semis | 1960s–70s (some older converted cottages) | Lake Ontario and Frenchman’s Bay humidity, wind off the water | Rotted sills and fascia boards, tired capping, undersized eaves | Rot repair, then new window capping and fascia wrap |
| Subdivision detached homes and townhouses (for example, Brock Ridge and Highbush) | 1980s–90s | Mature trees, suburban wind | Faded and dented soffit, leaking eavestrough seams and corners, loose downspouts | Soffit, fascia and eaves replacement as one package |
| Seaton and Duffin Heights new builds | 2010s–present | Open fields, little tree shelter, construction dust | Light-gauge builder eaves, shallow downspout drops, visible trim seams | Upgrade to 6″ seamless eavestrough, cap exposed trim |
The table is a starting point, not a rule. A 1990s house that had its roof done recently may need nothing but new eaves, and a well-kept Bay Ridges semi may need only a capping refresh. The on-site inspection decides.
Bay Ridges: what 60 years by Frenchman’s Bay does to a house
Bay Ridges houses mostly need moisture repairs, not cosmetic ones. The neighbourhood sits between Frenchman’s Bay and Lake Ontario, and most of today’s homes date from the 1960s and 70s. Many of them have spent decades in damp air with original wood sills, fascia boards and porch framing.
The area’s history explains some of the odd houses on its streets. The Neighbourhood Guide notes that Toronto residents built vacation cottages by the lake in the 1910s and 1920s. After Highway 401 opened, many were winterized as year-round homes in the 1950s. Mass development followed in the 1960s and 70s, and the Nautical Village, with beach-style homes, arrived in the early 2000s. So one street can hold a converted cottage, a ranch bungalow and a brick-and-siding semi, each with different trim details.
Frenchman’s Bay itself was once closed off from the lake by a sandbar. A canal cut through it in 1843 let vessels reach the harbour. Today the bay connects to Lake Ontario through that channel. The open water on two sides is why wind and humidity here differ from conditions a few kilometres north.
What we usually find on Bay Ridges homes
- Soft wood under old capping. Bottom sills and brickmould under 30- or 40-year-old aluminum capping are often soft. The capping looks fine from the street while the wood behind it is failing.
- Converted-cottage trim. Former cottages often have irregular openings, mixed siding materials and non-standard overhangs, so capping needs custom bends.
- Shallow overhangs with no venting. Smaller 1960s houses often have short eaves with solid soffit or none at all. Adding vented aluminum soffit, where the roof structure allows it, can help attic airflow.
- Porch and step damage. Front porches facing the lake weather fast. Cladding and capping are straightforward. Structural repairs are a separate scope and may need a permit.
- Brick-and-siding semis. Semi-detached homes share a roofline. Colour and profile choices should consider the neighbour’s half so the building still reads as one.
Pickering by the numbers: growth that shapes exterior work
Pickering is one of the fastest-growing municipalities in the eastern GTA, and most of that growth is happening in brand-new neighbourhoods. That’s why a large share of Pickering exterior work is upgrading new homes rather than replacing old exteriors. These are the figures we found in City of Pickering documents and other published sources.
- About 106,350 residents at December 31, 2024 (City of Pickering, 2025 Population and Unit Forecast Report).
- About 170,141 residents forecast for 2044, roughly 69% growth over 20 years (same report).
- 38,139 housing units citywide as the 2024 baseline, combining 2021 Census figures with occupancy permits issued from May 2021 through December 2024 (same report).
- Seaton: 2,870 units and 8,294 residents in 2024, with 17,371 more units proposed (same report).
- Duffin Heights: 2,079 units and 6,008 residents in 2024, forecast to reach 4,778 units by 2044 (same report).
- Seaton is planned for about 61,000 residents, with a long-term goal of 70,000 and up to 35,000 jobs, on over 7,000 acres. Over half the land is preserved as open space (City of Pickering, Seaton Community page).
- The Central Pickering Development Plan, which guides Seaton, was approved by the province in 2006 (City of Pickering).
What this means for homeowners: thousands of houses in north Pickering are less than a decade old and still have the eavestrough, downspouts and trim the builder installed. The large share of preserved open space around Seaton also means many homes back onto fields, valleys or natural areas, with little to break the wind.
10 signs the builder-grade eaves and trim on your new Pickering home need an upgrade
A new house is not a finished exterior. Production builders install materials that meet requirements at handover, but those materials aren’t always sized or detailed for the specific lot. These are the signs we see most often in Seaton and Duffin Heights.
- Water sheets over the trough in a downpour. Steep, two-storey roofs on narrow lots concentrate water. If you see a curtain of water at the inside corners, the trough or outlets are too small.
- Downspouts dump water at the foundation. Short extensions or none at all, especially on side yards between closely spaced houses, put water where you don’t want it.
- Troughs sag between hangers. Wide hanger spacing in light-gauge trough shows up after the first snow and ice season.
- Seams drip at the corners. Sectional troughs with sealed joints can start dripping within a few seasons.
- Soffit panels rattle or pop out in wind. On houses facing open fields, soffit that isn’t fully seated in its channel can loosen in strong gusts.
- Bare or painted wood trim around the garage. Some new homes have painted wood or a thin wrap at garage door frames, which scuffs and peels. Custom garage door frame capping fixes that permanently.
- Visible caulk lines on window and door trim. Heavy caulking used to hide gaps tends to crack and discolour. Cleanly bent aluminum capping looks sharper and needs less upkeep.
- Mismatched colours. Eaves, downspouts, soffit and window frames in slightly different whites or browns is common on production homes.
- Dirt streaks under the soffit. Construction dust and runoff in a still-building neighbourhood can stain light soffit. A darker or vented replacement may hide it better.
- Ice build-up at the eaves. Icicles and ice ridges at the same spots every winter mean water is pooling in the trough, often because of poor pitch or a blocked outlet.
We measure on site, explain what we found and put the price in writing. Free, with no pressure.
How to upgrade builder-grade eavestrough on a new Pickering home
The upgrade that matters most is usually capacity and discharge, not looks. Bigger troughs, more or larger downspouts, and discharge that carries water away from the foundation solve most new-home water problems. A practical sequence follows.
1. Watch it rain before you call anyone
During a heavy rain, walk the house (with an umbrella, from the ground) and note where water overflows, where downspouts discharge and where water pools. Photos or short videos make the estimate faster and more accurate.
2. Check your warranty position
Know which builder warranty items are still open. Report defects such as leaking seams or loose downspouts to the builder if they’re covered. Plan the upgrade around that timeline.
3. Decide on trough size
Many two-storey new builds do better with 6″ seamless than with 5″ sectional, especially where a large upper roof drains onto a lower one. Our eavestrough installation and repair page explains the sizing logic.
4. Plan downspout locations with the yard in mind
New Pickering lots are often narrow, with walkways, side gates and air-conditioning units in the side yard. We place downspouts so the discharge doesn’t cross walkways, where it would freeze in winter, or soak a neighbour’s side.
5. Match or upgrade the colour
If the builder’s eaves don’t match the soffit and fascia, now is the time to unify them. Some owners replace soffit and fascia at the same time for a single, co-ordinated colour. See soffit and fascia replacement.
6. Add guards only where trees justify them
Newly planted streets have little leaf load. Gutter guards may not be needed for years, so don’t pay for them where there’s nothing to catch yet.
Why open-field wind matters north of the 401
In Seaton and parts of Duffin Heights, wind reaches houses with little to slow it down. There are few mature trees yet, and many lots face open fields or preserved natural areas. Compared with an older south Pickering street lined with big trees, that changes how exterior aluminum should be installed.
Install details that hold up in exposed locations
- Fully seated soffit. Every soffit panel should be fully engaged in its channel and fastened at the fascia, so gusts can’t lift or rattle it.
- Fascia locked under the drip edge. Wind-driven rain looks for any gap. Fascia tucked properly under the roof’s drip edge keeps water off the board.
- Tighter hanger spacing. Closer hangers resist wind uplift and carry winter ice loads on long runs facing open ground.
- Secured downspouts. Downspouts on exposed corners need enough straps that they don’t bang or pull loose in gusts.
- Thicker capping where it takes hits. Garage frames and trim at ground level near driveways take impacts and blown debris. Gauge matters there.
The same panels hold up fine on a sheltered street and an exposed one. The difference is in fastening and finishing. Ask any contractor how they’ll handle wind on your particular lot.
The 1980s–90s neighbourhoods: is it time to replace the first aluminum?
Usually yes, if the soffit is faded and dented and the eaves are leaking at the seams. Neighbourhood profiles describe Brock Ridge as developed largely in the 1980s, with many homes from the 1990s and early 2000s, and Highbush as adding new subdivisions in the 1980s and 90s. Exterior aluminum from that era is now 25 to 40 years old.
These houses often still have their original sectional eavestrough, soffit and fascia. The aluminum itself rarely fails outright. What fails is the finish (chalking and fading), the joints (leaking seams and corner mitres), the fastening (sagging spikes-and-ferrules) and the wood behind it (soft fascia boards where water got in).
Repair or replace? A quick decision guide
| Situation | Repair makes sense | Replacement makes sense |
|---|---|---|
| Eavestrough leaks | One or two leaking corners on otherwise sound runs | Leaks at multiple seams, sagging runs, rust stains on the fascia |
| Soffit | A few panels damaged by animals or impact | Widespread fading, dents and loose panels; poor venting |
| Fascia | Small dents in the wrap, sound board underneath | Soft board in several spots, wrap pulling away |
| Window capping | One unit damaged by a ladder or ball | Most units chalked, dented or open at the sill |
| Siding | A few dented panels with matching stock available | Widespread fading or damage, or a change in look wanted |
| Timing | A roof replacement isn’t far off; patch now, replace with the roof | Roof recently done; replace the roofline so it matches the new shingles |
When the siding goes too
Many 1980s–90s Pickering homes combine brick on the front with aluminum or vinyl siding on the sides, rear and upper gables. When that siding is faded, cracked or dented, owners often replace it along with the roofline so everything matches. Replacing vinyl with aluminum is a common request. Our aluminum siding installation and replacement page covers profiles, tear-off and insulation board options. On these houses, the gables are usually the most weathered part, because they catch the most sun and wind and are the hardest to reach for cleaning.
Porches and dormers on mid-generation homes
Front porches with wood posts, beams and ceilings are common on houses from this era, and so are dormers on storey-and-a-half designs. Wrapping porch beams and ceilings in aluminum, or re-cladding dormer cheeks, cuts out a lot of painting. Structural porch repairs are quoted separately and may need a permit. See porches and dormers for what’s involved.
If you’re replacing the roof in the next year or two, plan the eavestrough with it. Shingles and drip edge go on first, then fascia and eaves, so you avoid paying twice for removal.
5″ or 6″ eavestrough: which is right for a Pickering home?
For small, simple roofs, 5″ is usually enough. For larger roofs, steep pitches or upper roofs draining onto lower roofs, 6″ is usually the better choice. In Pickering that splits roughly by age: many Bay Ridges bungalows suit 5″, and many new two-storey homes in the north suit 6″.
| Factor | 5″ seamless | 6″ seamless |
|---|---|---|
| Typical GTA ballpark (2026) | $8–$14 per linear ft | $10–$17 per linear ft |
| Best fit | Bungalows, back-splits and small semis with modest roof areas | Two-storey homes, steep roofs, valleys and lower roofs that take upper-roof water |
| Leaf handling | Clogs sooner under mature trees | More room for debris before overflow |
| Appearance | Slimmer profile suits small houses | Bolder profile in proportion with tall walls |
| Downspouts | Standard size | Often paired with larger downspouts |
Downspouts typically run $10–$18 per linear ft as a ballpark. On a two-storey home, a few extra downspouts often do as much good as the bigger trough.
What does exterior aluminum work cost in Pickering?
Pickering pricing follows the same GTA ranges. The scope just tends to differ by neighbourhood: more rot repair in Bay Ridges, more full roofline packages in 1980s–90s subdivisions, more eaves upgrades and capping in new communities. Typical GTA ballpark ranges (2026) — your written quote after an on-site measure is what counts.
| Item | Ballpark range | Where it comes up in Pickering |
|---|---|---|
| Aluminum siding, supply & install | $9–$16 per sq ft (tear-off/disposal and insulation board extra) | Replacing faded siding on 1980s–90s homes; frame-sided semis in Bay Ridges |
| Vinyl siding (comparison) | $6–$12 per sq ft | Many owners replace vinyl with aluminum |
| Aluminum soffit | $8–$14 per linear ft | Full roofline packages |
| Aluminum fascia | $7–$13 per linear ft | Often paired with soffit |
| Window capping | $175–$450 per window | Bay Ridges homes with original sills |
| Entry door frame capping | $250–$600 per door | Lake-facing entries |
| Garage door frame capping | $350–$900 per opening | New builds with painted wood frames |
| Wood rot repair before capping | $150–$900 per opening | Most common in 1960s–70s homes |
| Dormer cladding/capping | $1,500–$7,000 | Storey-and-a-half homes and some newer elevations |
| Porch repair or rebuild | Quoted per project | Lake-facing porches; permits may apply |
What moves a Pickering price: wall height, access on tight side yards, tear-off, rot found once old material is off, colour and gauge, custom bends for irregular cottage-era openings, and season.
What we inspect on a Pickering exterior
We run the same core checks on every estimate, but how much each one matters depends on where the house sits. This matrix shows how we weight them for the three Pickering home types.
| Check | Bay Ridges / lakefront | 1980s–90s subdivisions | Seaton / Duffin Heights |
|---|---|---|---|
| Wood sills and brickmould under capping | High priority | Medium | Low (new wood, but check for gaps) |
| Fascia board condition | High | High at corners and valleys | Low |
| Eaves capacity and pitch | Medium | Medium | High |
| Downspout discharge location | Medium | Medium | High (narrow side yards) |
| Soffit seating and wind resistance | Medium (lake wind) | Low to medium | High (open fields) |
| Attic intake ventilation | High (short eaves, often unvented) | Medium | Low to medium |
| Leaf load | High (mature trees) | High (mature trees) | Low for now |
| Colour uniformity | Low | Medium (faded) | High (mismatched builder colours) |
| Shared-wall details | High for semis | Medium for townhouses | High for towns and semis |
Call and describe what you see. We will tell you honestly whether it is a repair, a replacement or nothing yet.
Step by step: replacing window capping on a 1960s Bay Ridges home
New capping on an older house is only as good as the wood under it. Here’s the order we work in.
- Remove the old capping carefully. Old aluminum comes off window by window, so the house is never left open across a whole elevation.
- Probe every sill and brickmould. We use an awl or screwdriver to find soft wood. The bottom sill and the lower corners are where water sits.
- Cut out and replace rot. We remove soft sections back to sound wood and replace them with new material. This is the step that quick capping jobs skip. See window and door frame repair.
- Check flashing and sealing at the frame. We confirm water at the sill drains outward, not toward the wall.
- Measure each opening individually. Older homes, and especially converted cottages, rarely have identical windows. Each piece is measured on its own.
- Bend capping on site. We form aluminum coil into custom profiles for the sill, jambs and head, with drip edges where water needs to shed.
- Fasten and seal. Capping is fastened securely, and joints are sealed so water can’t track behind.
- Final walkthrough. We review each window with you and document any opening where rot repair was done.
Example project scenario (illustrative)
This scenario is illustrative, based on typical GTA jobs. It doesn’t describe a real customer or address.
The house: A two-storey detached home in a newer north Pickering subdivision, about five years old, backing onto open space. The owners notice water overflowing at two inside corners in heavy storms, a downspout emptying onto the side walkway (icy in winter), and painted wood garage door trim that’s already peeling. The builder warranty items they had reported were closed.
What the inspection finds: 5″ sectional eavestrough with wide hanger spacing. An upper roof valley draining onto a lower roof, which overloads one corner. Soffit near the rear corner slightly lifted, likely from wind off the open space. Off-white soffit and eaves that don’t quite match the window frames.
The plan: Replace all eavestrough with 6″ seamless on hidden hangers at closer spacing, and add a downspout on the rear elevation to split the valley water. Reroute the side-yard downspout so discharge goes away from the walkway. Re-seat and fasten the loose soffit run. Cap the double garage door frame in a colour matched to the window frames, and switch the eaves to the same colour.
How the price would be built: Eaves at the 6″ per-linear-foot ballpark and downspouts per linear foot. Garage frame capping at the double-opening end of the $350–$900 range. A small labour line for soffit re-seating. All figures are ballpark until the on-site measure.
Checklist: before your Pickering estimate
A little preparation makes the estimate faster and the quote more accurate.
- Photos or video of overflow, leaks or ice build-up, taken in real weather.
- Your home’s approximate build year and any past exterior work.
- For new homes: which builder warranty items are still open.
- For semis and townhouses: any condo, freehold-common-element or neighbour considerations.
- Your roof’s age, and whether a roof replacement is planned.
- Colour preferences, or photos of homes you like.
- Planned porch or dormer changes. Structural work may need a permit, so confirm with the City of Pickering’s building department.
- Clear access to side yards and the garage on estimate day.
Template: Pickering exterior maintenance calendar (lakefront vs north)
- March–April: Lakefront: check sills and capping on lake-facing walls for gaps opened by winter. North: look for soffit loosened by winter winds and troughs bent by ice.
- May–June: All: hose down soffit and siding. New builds: rinse off construction dust before it stains light finishes.
- July–August: Lakefront and mature streets: trim branches back from the roofline. North: check that downspout extensions haven’t been knocked out of place by lawn equipment.
- October–November: Older neighbourhoods: clear leaves from eaves after the main drop, and again if needed. North: a single check is usually enough while trees are young.
- December–February: All: from the ground, watch for icicles or ice ridges in the same spots and note them for spring repairs.
To book a free estimate, call (647) 560-9038 or send the estimate request form. We also work in neighbouring Scarborough and Markham, along with the rest of the GTA. Our service areas overview lists every community we cover.
Every job comes with a written contract and our 5-year workmanship warranty.
Frequently asked questions
Can I replace the builder’s eavestrough on my new Seaton home?
Yes. Many owners of new Pickering homes upgrade to 6″ seamless eavestrough with better downspout placement. If your home is still within its new-home warranty period, check the warranty terms and report any defects to your builder first, so changing builder-installed components doesn’t complicate a claim. Then plan the upgrade.
Do I need a permit for siding or eavestrough work in Pickering?
Replacing siding, soffit, fascia or eavestrough on a house doesn’t typically need a building permit. Porch construction or rebuilds, decks and structural dormer work usually do. Rules can change, and special cases exist, so confirm your project with the City of Pickering’s building department before work begins.
Why does my Bay Ridges home have so much rot under the capping?
Many Bay Ridges homes date from the 1960s and 70s and sit in damp lakeside air near Frenchman’s Bay. Water that gets behind old capping at the sill can stay there through winter. Over decades of freeze-thaw, the wood softens even while the aluminum looks fine. We probe and repair the wood before installing new capping.
Is aluminum siding a good replacement for vinyl on a Pickering home?
For many homes, yes. Aluminum stays rigid in cold weather, is non-combustible and holds a baked-on colour finish. It can dent from hail or impacts, so gauge matters on exposed walls. Vinyl is cheaper up front, ballpark $6–$12 per sq ft against $9–$16 for aluminum, but some owners prefer aluminum’s look and feel.
How do I stop soffit from rattling in the wind on a home facing open fields?
Rattling soffit usually means panels aren’t fully seated in their channels or aren’t fastened enough at the fascia. The fix is usually re-seating and re-fastening the affected run, not replacing everything. On exposed lots in north Pickering, ask for this detail specifically when getting quotes for new soffit.
Should I replace eavestrough before or after a new roof?
After, or at the same time. Shingles and drip edge should go on before fascia and eavestrough, so the trough sits properly under the drip edge. If your roof is due within a year or two, patch the eaves for now and replace them with the roof, so you don’t pay for removal twice.
Can you cap the garage door frame on a newer Pickering home?
Yes. We measure the wood frame, cut and bend aluminum to fit, and attach it with adhesive and/or screws. It replaces repeated painting of wood trim that scuffs and peels. Garage door frame capping typically runs $350–$900 per opening as a ballpark, depending on whether it’s a single or double door.
Do you work on semi-detached homes and townhouses?
Yes. With shared rooflines, we plan downspout locations so water doesn’t drain toward the neighbouring unit, and we finish soffit and fascia cleanly at the dividing line. If you’re in a condominium or have common elements, check any rules on exterior colours and materials before choosing.
Is Pro Aluminum Siding based in Pickering?
We’re a service-area business. Our crews travel to homes across the GTA, including Pickering, rather than working from a local storefront. Estimates are free and done at your home, where we can see your exposure, measure accurately and show colour samples in daylight. Call (647) 560-9038 to book.